Advanced Self Rescue
This course is designed to help participants answer that age old climbing question “What if?” “What would I do if my partner was injured by a rockfall? What if we had to get down fast? These questions and many more lay just beneath the surface of most climbing expeditions and the potentials they imply can mean the difference between a tough day on the rock, or an all out epic.
Duration: 2 Days
Who should take this course?
While not required, this course is best suited for climbers with some significant vertical mileage under their belt. Any climber venturing into multi-pitch territory should have these tools in their toolbelt.
The techniques and skills covered in this course reflect commonly used practices designed to increase the likelihood of success should an emergency or Self Rescue situation arise.
Under experienced supervision, participants will work to develop the skills necessary to handle the many unexpected and complex scenarios that can arise in the dangerous world of rock climbing. By learning fundamental techniques that are universal to most Self Rescue scenarios, students will not only be prepared for common risk potentials, but a variety of unexpected and unique situations.
Below are a few examples of potential scenarios addressed in this course:
What will you learn?
You are about to start leading the 5th pitch of a climb when one member of your party of 3, is stung by a bee and starts to show signs of difficulty breathing. After a quick search, your party realizes that the Epipen is in the pack at the base of the crag.
While bringing up your second on the strenuous 90’ long pitch #8, an unexpected rock fall from above leaves them seriously injured and unconscious.
You are belaying a leader on the 5th pitch of a trad route. As the leader nears the crux at the top of the slightly traversing 150’ pitch, a broken hold causes a wild upside down fall, leaving the leader dangling unconscious from the rope.
Course information will include but is not limited to the following skills, as well as a look at the non-technical aspects of Self Rescue Preparedness.
Application/Use of Load Transferring Knots
Application/Use of Friction Hitches
Application/Use of basic haul/assist systems
Passing a knot while lowering/rappelling
Rappelling with an injured climber
Lowering two climbers simultaneously
Lowering from an auto blocking device
Transitioning from a weighted Top-Belay to a Counterbalance rappel
Transitioning from a lead belay to rope ascension
Participants must have completed a GG Basic Self Rescue Course or posses competent equivalent knowledge. In addition they must:
have led a minimum of 5 pitches of traditional climbing 5.7 or above.
have led or seconded, a minimum of 3 multi-pitch climbs.
be comfortable with common techniques of single pitch climbing as well as building a traditional gear anchor, administering a top-belay, setting up a rappel, managing a belay station, and using a number of common climbing knots.
Time / Location
This course runs from 8am to 4pm both days, at our Chebucto Head location and our Sorrows End location. (In order to provide the best instruction possible, we may on occasion choose a different start time and location depending on weather or other concerns).